Rebecca Kleinman

No Longer Hush-Hush

Sotto Sotto is keeping good company. The eatery at 313 North Highland Avenue is the new hot spot for Atlanta's chefs to dine on their nights off. The place is getting so busy, according to general manager Nikki Cascone, that a sophisticated reservation system had to be installed - one where diners receive confirmation numbers, more like New York, unheard on in Atlanta.

All this puts the spotlight on chef Riccardo Ullio, a Milan native whose family moved to Conyers, GA., with a stack of Old World recipes. The menu changes seasonally, and is dominated by homemade pasta and risottos. Among the specialties are ravioli filled with eggplant and walnuts, topped with tomatoes and basil, or risotto with shrimp, scallops, mussels and clams.

But word is the chefs order the mouth-water hanger steak, served sizzling alongside wilted arugula and garlic potatoes. Another insider secret in an appetizer of thinly sliced veal smothered in a classic tonnato sauce of tuna, anchovies, mayonnaise, vinegar and capers.

Another treat is olive oil tasting. While pouring each one, the server describes the region, body and flavor, which ranges from grassy to spicy to nutty.

"We offer it because Italians treat olives as seriously as wine," said Cascone.

And if there were ever a time to save room for dessert, this is it. The chocolate soup comes with hazelnuts and sweetened croutons, while the mascarpone, or sweetened cream cheese, has crumbled up anisette cookies soaked in rum and pana cotta, the Italian version of flan, is topped with caramel.

For lighter fare, check out Sotto Sotto's sister restaurant next door, Pizza Fritti, which serves pizzas made in wood-burning ovens and salads.

Sotto Sotto (which means "hush hush" in Italian) is open Monday Thursday from 5:30-11 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to midnight ; closed Sundays; (404) 523-6678.